For the past fourteen months, I've been on the hunt for the perfect NYC burger. Coming from the In N Out cult of California, raised on all natural milkshakes with bible verses printed on their paper cups, my standards are high. Orders that can be placed in secret code are appreciated; think: animal style, protein style, double doubles. Simple menus. No mushy buns! Ketchup must be served on the side. I'll waive the palm tree requirement.
Needless to say, the search is ongoing. M. and I dragged a couple of California visitors to the Shake Shack in Madison Square Park this summer to help us taste test their offerings. We fell in love with the frozen custard shakes, the option of having wine with your fries and the outdoor venue. I was willing to forgive the lack of secrecy involved in this venture--not only were there no secret codes for ordering, but all of New York seemed to be lined up, making the wait more than I'd bargained for--but there is one major problem with the Shake Shack: Who wants to eat outside in the middle of winter? Shake Shack recognizes this issue and, understandably, adjusts its hours to reflect that. But tell me, what are we carnivorous Californians supposed to do in the chilly January evenings when a warm burger would just hit the spot?
Well, there's the crowded Burger Joint, hidden away behind a black curtain at Le Parker Meridien. There's Corner Bistro in the West Village, where you hang out "on line" at the bar for forty-five minutes before being served. Don't get me wrong: Both serve up a good, simple burger, but you've got to be in the mood for loud, beer-fueled conversation to survive either one.
And then there's Stand, where M. and I headed almost a year ago upon its opening some time last winter. A semi-chic burger bar, it was just okay back then. The waiters mumbled the specials and the franchise had yet to be awarded its liquor license--which perhaps accounted for the mumbling?
But for some reason, I went back. And last night, I was impressed. Sure, the prices could not compete with In N Out but at least the burgers tried to. You have the option of branching out and ordering burger soup or a beer shake, but I selected the classic cheeseburger and (I admit my vice) a chocolate shake. The review? Two greasy thumbs up. The burger even came with a rather refined cheddar dipping sauce! Points. But probably my favorite part of the whole experience--not to belittle the food--was the text on the matchbooks:
"I met: [name], [gender], [phone] at Stand."
Ha. Priceless.
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